In May several trees near my property were cut down and the stumps ground to grade level. Suckers are appearing around many of the stumps and in all directions away from the stumps. They are also appearing in numerous places throughout my yard.

Are these a very aggressive and invasive root that is hard to control and if the suckers are allowed to grow will they generate their own root system?

Yes, they may.

Is there something I can spray on each sucker that will kill the entire root system and stump?

Roundup applied with a small paint brush, Q-tip, or eyedropper right after mowing or hand pruning should work. Be careful to not get the roundup on the grass or that will die also.

Will the overspray effect any other type of landscape growth?


Can the roots be exposed near each sucker and treated to kill the entire root system and stump?

Yes, use something to cut into the bark below the surface of the soil and then apply roundup to the wounded area.

Can the entire yard be excavated to expose these roots and treat each one to kill the entire root system and stump?

Sure, but that should not be necessary

Can each and every stump be located, excavated, make fresh cuts and apply treatment to kill the stump and it's entire root system? 

Sure, see other answers.

Would any of the above methods prevent the present and future invasion of these roots on my property? 

If any sprouts within the area are not removed, the root system could continue growing.  From what I could see on the photos, the leaf appeared to be one of the Aspens, which are trees that will generate lots of suckers.

Are there any professionals in the Tri City area that could permanently destroy these stumps and there entire root system? 

Yes, any of the Tree service companies could do this for a fee

Any information you can supply me with the above issue would be helpful.

You can also just continue mowing the lawn and suckers this year, and they should not reappear next summer. The suckers will not be able to produce enough food for the root system to survive through the winter.

Suckers Appearing Throughout Lawn

The weather, kids, and pets can be tough on lawns. Lack of water, too much heat, wear & tear, and other problems can make it look worn and thin. You can help reinvigorate your lawn by overseeding. In the north, spring and fall give you the ideal conditions for cool-season grass seed: cooler temperatures and more moisture. In the south, late-spring through mid-summer provide ideal conditions for warm-season grass seed. The following are simple steps to overseed your lawn.

Project Steps:

Choose the Best Seed for Your Area 
Choose a highest quality grass seed that works for your location. If you live in the north, a cool-season grass mix, like Scotts® Turf Builder® Sun & Shade Mix® is a versatile mix. There are also cool season mixes available for shade, high traffic, and sunny areas. Scotts® Turf Builder® Heat-Tolerant Blue® Mix is great if you live in the northern transition zone. It's a blend of tall fescue and Scotts® patented Thermal Blue® Kentucky bluegrass that has been bred to withstand heat and drought. If you live in the south, choose a warm-season grass type that works best for your area, like Scotts® Turf Builder® Zoysiagrass or Scotts® Turf Builder® Bermudagrass.

Prepare the Area 
Before overseeding your lawn, you should mow your lawn short and bag the clippings. This will allow the seed to come into contact with the soil when you spread it. 

Use a Scotts® spreader to spread your seed. Be sure to set your spreader to the setting listed on the bag of grass seed. When you're done, it's essential to give the seeds a good soaking to get them growing.

When you're done spreading the seed, it's essential to water your lawn to get your seeds growing. Mist your lawn frequently, once or twice per day, until the new seedlings have reached the height of your existing lawn.

You can continue to mow your lawn as needed, but try to limit the activity on your lawn until your new seedlings have reached a mowing height.

In the last week, dandelions have been lighting up the landscape with their brilliant yellow flowers. In most areas, the first flush of dandelion flowers has come and gone and now the puff-ball stage is in full effect. According to Michigan State University Extension, applying a herbicide at the puff-ball stage can be very effective, as this is the time the dandelion is at its weakest because it has just spent all that energy pushing out flowers. Applications prior to puff-ball stage can be effective at burning down the rosette and preventing puff-balls, but keep in mind that if you really want to get ‘em, schedule a fall application.

In addition to dandelions, many other broadleaf weeds are flowering in turf right now. Common chickweed, henbit, shepherd’s purse, yellow rocket, corn speedwell, wild violet and ground ivy are all flowering. All but wild violet and ground ivy are winter annuals. The life cycle of a winter annual is they germinate in fall, overwinter and then flower and produce seed in spring. After flowering in spring, winter annuals are usually only two to three weeks from dying.

If you apply herbicides now, they will be dead and gone in two to three weeks. If you do nothing, they will be dead and gone in two to three weeks. Get it?

Similar to the strategy of controlling dandelions, there are some very tough-to-control weeds that are also flowering right now. Ground ivy (also known as Creeping Charlie), wild violet and several speedwells (Germander and Creeping) are actively flowering. The flowering period is the best opportunity to kill them until fall arrives. The typical broadleaf combination herbicide containing 2,4-D provides fair control at flowering, but if you can find combination herbicides with the active ingredients quinclorac, triclopyr, fluroxypyr or carfentrazone, you should achieve better than fair control.

The Best Way to Overseed a Lawn